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The Style Scale was developed by the Conselle Institute and is endorsed by some of the most prominent retailers and manufacturers in the country. The scale has four levels; each defining a different way to dress based on the day’s activities. The levels are as follows:
Level 4
The level for your most important days at work: “Tailored”- This level is defined by the presence of a suit…i.e. a coat with matching pants. A suit conveys the most authority based on numerous surveys. A recent survey of 201 senior executives of the 500 largest companies in America disclosed that 65% of executives believe that a man wearing a suit and tie projects a better image of the company than a guy dressed casually. Perhaps even more surprising, 20% of those same executives believe a guy wearing a suit and tie is more likely to get promoted!
So, for important meetings and days where you feel it is important to “put your best foot forward”, we recommend a suit. A white shirt provides the greatest contrast to the suit and a dark tie with small patterns is the easiest with to work. Dark solid shirts are more casual and more appropriate for “casual Fridays” or evenings out.
The suit with which one should start is a solid dark blue, grey or black one.
Level 3
The level for less important days at work- “Softly Tailored”- A solid suit of these colors allows its owner to easily change to a more casual look by pairing a contrasting pair of dress pants to create a neat, yet casual look. A white, colored, or mini-patterned shirt with a complementary tie (rely on your sales professional if not comfortable selecting ties…it’s not an inherited trait…it’s definitely an acquired art!) will create a professional casual look appropriate for less important business occasions and casual Fridays.
Note, in both business situations above we have recommended a jacket. A simple blazer can be removed upon arriving at the office if no client contact is anticipated. One never knows, however, when that important opportunity will arise and we accordingly recommend dressing in a way that best prepares you for any occasion.
Also note we have recommended solid sport coats or blazer-looks. Once you have built your basic wardrobe including a blue, black, &/or dark grey blazer, you can consider adding a “sport coat”. A sport coat is a jacket of non-solid or textured fabric that would be matched with solid dress trousers. Examples would be small plaids, textured non-solid-solids, herringbone patterns, etc. These are more difficult to accessorize with ties, shirts, etc. and are recommended only for those having their basic wardrobe needs covered.
Level Two
This level is appropriate for those not required to have any client contact or for days designated office-wide as “casual”…e.g. Fridays in the Summer months in the Northeast. This level is referred to as “Casual tailored”.
Casual tailored refers to pants that will hold a crease. Wool slacks hold a crease much better and longer than any of their cotton counterparts. Cotton slacks are very comfortable but require ironing after almost every use to keep a crease. (We don’t know any guys who iron their slacks after each use…do you?) Wool is not just a winter fabric. In fact, many of the finest pants are made of very fine wools.
The “casual tailored” level suggests one wear a shirt with a collar. A collar may be a traditional cotton or cotton-blend shirt with a button-down collar, point collar, or a knit shirt with a collar. Knit shirt collars include “mock neck collars” (popular in the Fall and Winter months in cotton/wool blends, heavier silk, and merino wools), “crew neck collars” (similar but slightly lower bands at the collar-popular in the Spring and Summer months in cotton, silk, and various “hi-tech”, man-made fabrics that breathe remarkably well.)
This level accommodates “layering”. Adding a sweater or vest increases the “dressiness” or level or authority of the person wearing the outfit.
If one adds a blazer or sportcoat, the wearer elevates this wardrobe from the “casual tailored” level to the “softly tailored” level.
Level One
This if for weekend relaxation- “untailored”. This level consists of any slack or shirt combination, sweatpants, etc. The difference between this level and the others is (i) a lack of a sport coat or blazer, (ii) the fact that the pants will most likely not have a crease…have you ever ironed your favorite khakis? We think that would almost be sacrilegious!), and (iii) this is where you get to wear your favorite tee shirts with or without a shirt!
To test you on the above instructions, please go to the top of our site, look at the menu “STYLE GUIDE”, and open “LEVELS of DRESS”. See if our examples make sense to you. We welcome your comments and suggestions. Please contact us with your ideas and reactions.
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